More adventures in air travel

We are settling in in Prickly Bay, Grenada. A nice crowd of cruisers here and a cruiser’s net every morning at 0730 on the VHF with weather and general information. Days have been hot but a nice breeze at night for sleeping.

Now then. . . .here’s a short version (I swear!) of our air travel troubles. Way back in maybe April we booked air fare round trip from Grenada to Tampa using Travelocity (Coporate motto: We hate you). This trip was originally for late July to coincide with daughter Leah’s PhD defense. Well, we had to go home way earlier than that so we cancelled that itenerary. You can’t get your money back but you do get to pay a penalty to re-book. Fine. Ok, here’s the itinerary as we originally booked it: Grenada to St. Vincent via Liat Airlines, St. Vincent to San Juan via Liat, San Juan to Miami via American Eagle, and Miami to Tampa via American Eagle. Why Tampa? Because we can book free airfare with our credit card points for domestic travel. Now try to re-book this. Here are the issues.

1. According to Travelocity we had to have paper tickets since Liat doesn’t issue e-tickets (turns out to be not true)
2. To re-book we have to mail the paper tickets to Texas at least 2 weeks before we intend to re-book. When we re-book they will mail us new tickets . . . To WHERE?
3. We can’t simply go to the airport and take care of it there as it is a Travelocity deal. We did walk to the airport today and tried. Nice walk but no help there.
4. When you call Travelocity you always get someone in India who a. Barely speaks understandable English and b. Has been programmed to only handle normal questions and cannot handle variations on a theme.
5. Liat and American Eagle have no ‘agreement’ between them so we probably have to stick with the two airlines when we do re-book.

I dread calling Travelocity. Maybe Sue will!

Then there is the issue of trying to fly into an island without a return ticket out. This was why they wouldn’t put us on a plane in San Juan until we bought full fare tickets from Martinique back to San Juan (we’ve since gotten our money back on those tickets as promised). I’ve talked to two different immigration people here in Grenada who tell me there should be no trouble - just show your boat papers. But I DID show those in San Juan and they just laughed at me!

We fully intend to get back to Chicago for the world series featuring our beloved Chicago Cubs versus the american league champs and I hope to Newton it is not the pukey White Sox and their toothless fans! We may just leave the weird Travelocity tickets “in the bank” as it were for another time - we have a year from when we first booked - and start over with American Airlines who have always been helpful to us (except for not putting us on the plane in San Juan!). What the hell? It’s only money, right?

Lesson? Never book with Travelocity, never accept paper tickets, and never start a land war in Asia!

We’re THERE . . . again!

How many times over the last 3.5 years have people asked me what our ‘long range’ plans are and how many times did I answer that I had none except to make it to Grenada for some hurricane season or another. Grenada. The name itself was just a far flung dream during the winters in Des Plaines, Illinois. Grenada? Hell I wasn’t sure where the Chesapeake was back then (It’s by Baltimore, right?)

Yesterday we arrived in St. George’s, Grenada. Not unlike our arrival in NYC, Key West, Georgetown in the Bahamas, and the Dominican Republic we feel like we have made some significant goal. Geographically we are at the end of the windward islands of the Caribbean. Further south lie Trinidad and Venezuela and perhaps that is where we venture next. For now though we plan to stay in Grenada for a time and enjoy the fact that we’ve come thousands of miles (North-South alone we’ve gone from 42 degrees north in Chicago to 12 degrees north now. That’s 30 degrees or 1800 nautical miles.) on two different boats, gone through one whole cat and started on another, repaired numerous boat systems and left others in disrepair due to lack of interest and/or money. And only one bad storm at sea. Not bad.

But let’s go back. We left Bequia on Monday and had a very nice sail (~18 miles) to Canouan (pronounced berk’-lee). The entire northern end of this island has been purchased by some Italians and it is all a private resort. Moorings Charters also has a big fleet and base here. In fact if I lived up north and was looking for a great place to charter, starting here and exploring the Grenadines would be a great sailing vacation.Those two businesses more or less dominate the anchorage. We went ashore to see that but also to see the town. Well, there isn’t much town. Pretty depressed and looks like not much trickle down from the fancy resort area. As they say, the trickle down effect is ok as long as you arent’t the one being trickled down on! We ate at the Pirate Cove - part of the Tamarind resort. Cheeseburger? Sure. Only $18! It was good though! And we saw a fantastic green flash - best one ever!

Tuesday it was on to the Tabago Cays. Supposed to be good snorking. Like everything in this area of the Grenadines it’s about 5 miles or less to the next anchorage or place to explore. There are three little uninhabited islands and then a huge horse shoe reef to the east. We anchored to the west of the islands and we’re going to take the dinghy around to explore and snork. Then weather happened. Started to look pretty ugly to the east so we hauled anchor and sailed back to Mayreau, a tiny island with a great little bay - Salt Whistle Bay. This bay also is home to a resort but you can hardly tell it is there. Stone guest houses set back in the trees with a bar and restaurant down by the water. Not much going on though and we did NOT sample the cheeseburgers. Well, there is not much going on ANYWHERE in these parts this time of year. We may be the last boat through before hurricanes! In fact that Tamarind resort is closing for all of September. Still a beautiful anchorage and a fine night. It rained and blew a little but nothing spectacular.

Wednesday, we wanted to go (5 miles) to Union Island which is the last island in the Grenadines. We talked with weather god, Chris Parker, at 0700 though and he suggested going to Grenada today rather than wait as some squally weather would be coming. OK! Notice how every day the plan changes! Only about 35-40 miles to Grenada from here we can be off by 0800 and pretty much guarantee getting there in daylight.

GREAT SAIL! - for about half the trip. We were broad reaching at 6-7 knots in a light chop. Nice. Then the wind pretty much gave out at the northern end of Grenada and we motor-sailed the rest of the way. Interesting, that you have to navigate around an underwater volcano enroute to Grenada! There is a 1.5 km exclusion zone at all times and 5 km if it is erupting. It didn’t seem to be erupting (and what does that look like anyway?) so we skimmed the 1.5 km zone.

Mismo has become quite the good little sailor. She mostly stays with us in the cockpit when we are underway but will sometimes opt for some shade down by the rail. As long as she doesn’t get all jiggy and start running around the boat we’re ok. Her new favorite spot when at anchor is to lay with her big ass right between the secondary anchor and the chain to the first anchor. Comfy!

We had planned to motor into the lagoon area in St. George’s - the capital of Grenada. It was a very hot sail though after the wind gave out and we really wanted to swim and wanted some breeze at night. So we anchored outside by a beach with a number of other boats in about 4 meters of water (~2 fathoms). Oh it did feel great to jump in the water and bob around. Sue made chopped salad and tuna salad sandwiches and we turned in just after sun down. What a day. Arrival days are always special and this one the most special so far.

Thursday we’ll clear customs and explore St. George’s some. After that we will probably move the boat around to Prickly Bay on the south side. Our friends Larry and Debbie on Debonair are there and already have hailed us on the VHF. Wendy and Jim on Merenge should be there as well. Party time!

In Bequia

Yah, still here (Bequia) but not for long. We really like it here. Calm anchorage. Boats coming and going. Enough store stuff on shore but not too much. Probably even better during the busy season as some places are totally closed.

Sue went to the local hospital yesterday for an annoying rash that has been bothering her. They told her to keep up with the cream she has been putting on, gave her a shot of antihistamine, and told her to limit sun exposure. Nice people. Total cost including the shot? Zero. As is not unusual. They do take donations and we were glad to offer up a small one of our own.

We’ve been plagued with propane bottle problems for months. We replaced one steel one with a plastic/carbon fiber one in St. Maarten. I replaced the other steel one here with another steel one. I think the bottle itself and the valve have become terminally rusted so it was time. Have to keep an eye on this steel one and sand and paint it on occasion as the sea air does it’s thing.

We’ll probably shop for some food items today (Saturday) and then go around the corner and anchor on the southern shore tomorrow in Friendship Bay. We think that location will give a good view of the islands to the south.

Sailing Again. . .

Tuesday 8/12

Miracle and the outboard starts. Now we’re really ready to go. We make a quick trip into shore for weather check and to fire off some e-mails. Back to Enee and we make final preparations for the 100 miles south to Bequia.

Around 1030 we are off. As we set our course (~195o) we find the perfect Enee wind. About 10-15 knots just abaft the beam. We are making 6+ knots in about a 2 foot chop under full sail. We decide to take short, 1 hour stints at the helm as the sun is blazing. We have an open cockpit which is unusual for boats down here. Most people have a full bimini to cover the entire cockpit. While we considered that way back in Ft. Lauderdale we decided to not go that way for two reasons. 1. I couldn’t stand under it at the helm. This boat has a step right behind the wheel that puts my head about 1 inch under the boom. 2. We like to see all around - see our sails and see overhead at night. So the trade off is to drink lots of water, wear long sleeve shirt (only need one unlike bottles of sun block), get out of the sun often. This works fine for us. Oh, and if it rains. . . Well you get a little wet don’t you!

You can’t actually lay the entrance to Bequia from Martinique as it is hidden behind St. Vincent. You do have a choice to make as to whether to pass St. Vincent on the east or west side. In the light winds we are experiencing we don’t see a big difference either way and pick the west coast. Once we reach the south west corner of St. Vincent we can alter course to about 175o to lay Bequia and this wind should easily allow that.

Southwest coast of St. Lucia with Grande and Pitite Pitons.

Night comes and we are still sailing. So great to feel and hear the rush of water under our keel. The sun sets and the waxing gibbous moon is already up making it very bright on the water. We are really noticing the difference between sunset here and in Chicago. The sun sets on a line almost perpendicular to the horizon here so when it goes down, it is GONE and dark. Up north the sun sets at more of an angle to the horizon making evening time last longer.

Mismo threw up her lunch about a hour into the sail but seems to be coming around. She sits with us in the cockpit. Around 2100 hours Mismo is acting weird. Like she sees something on deck and is going to pounce. We don’t want her pouncing around deck at night. Beatings don’t help. I think she is looking at the shadow of our flag halyard as that moves across the deck but that isn’t all that interesting to the cat usually. Then Sue sees it - Dolphins are swimming right along with us off the port side! I go to look and there are a half dozen or so swimming off our side and playing just in front of the bow! They are gorgeous in the moonlight! They swim up from the depths making them seem to just appear as if by magic. They do that porpoiseing thing and we can hear their strangely human sounding breathing. We take turns at the helm so each of us can run forward and watch the show off the bow. Get this. . . They stay with us for over an hour! We must have been going the way they wanted to go anyway so they swim along with us. I think they get a little push by swimming in our bow wave and so take advantage. Around 2230 or so the wind started to crap out and so did our speed. We are languishing down under 4 knots now. The dolphins went on without us. Then, one came back and swam around Enee one more time as if to say, “What the hell? Let’s keep up!”.

As we continued south we could see the outline of St. Vincent in the moonlight. Suddenly we could also smell the dirt. What a strong, earthy scent that lingered the entire sail down the coast. It smelled healthy and fragrant. Last year when we approached the shore of the Dominican Republic we could smell the land as we were told we would. But this blast of soil infused air really took us by surprise. What are they growing on this island?

We did our usual 3 hours shifts through the night. Our earlier good speed has us arriving a little early in Bequia as arrival in new ports at night isn’t all that fun. Around 0400 Sue throttles down and we chug slowly the last 7 miles into Bequia just as it is getting light.

Arrival 13 00 N 61 16 W

Bequia and Admiralty Bay where we are anchoring is beautiful even in this half light. Moon is down and the sky is barely lit and yet as I release the anchor I can watch it descend all 5 meters (500 centimeters) to the sandy bottom. Reminds us of the Bahamas with the crazy clear water. Nothing to do now but have our ‘nothing broke and nobody died’ toast with a couple of cold Lorraines we brought from Martinique. By the way, as you know we have gone without refrigeration now for about a year and will probably never go back. But, for long overnighters it is good to have ice in the ice chest for cold water and juice and the celebratory beer at the end.

After naps we plan to go ashore. Man is it freaking HOT! I know, DUH! But it is extra hot as there is not a breath of wind and that is rare down here. Mismo is a black and white puddle. Sue and I both swim and try to cool off but it doesn’t really last. Reluctantly we rig the dinghy and go ashore to check in to customs. That was simple and we find a wi-fi place (The Gingerbread House) to check e-mail and weather (and Cubs’ scores!). Well it’s August isn’t it. Man is everything laid back. I imagine a hundred boats in this harbor during the busy season but right now there are about 20. Some charters though so probably get the good discount this time of year. I wonder where they are chartering out of?

Bequia has a history of whaling as it turns out. In fact the settlers were whalers from north america, Scotland, France and, of course, Africa. They still have a little whaling going on here. They are allowed to catch 4 per year between Feb and April. This is done in open sailing boats with hand thrown harpoons although there are only a few left with the skills (and the spheres!) to do this. If they get one they do take it to a small rendering plant on the south shore and get it down to whale oil and other whale goodies I guess. I’d like to see the chase sometime but not the rendering.

We’ll stay here a couple of days and then work our way through the Grenadines on our way to Grenada. Having just spent two months in Chicago (our favorite city) it is taking a little while to slip back into our cruising persona. Feels right though - making 2-3 day plans but no more. Sitting and watching the pretty water. Reading and napping. Our training is slowly coming back!

Now for those who have lost track of where we are, here is a progression of charts to get you back on track. As usual, clicking on the images will make them bigger and perhaps HUGE. Don't ask me!

Hurry and Wait

What a day! On monday we did get Enee launched, took on fuel and water, and gasoline. We motored out to the anchorage and dropped the hook. Nice. So great to be floating again on good old Enee Marie. We wanted to not leave until we could get a detailed weather prediction from Chris Parker on Tuesday morning. So, how about going ashore to call my daughter (new PhD and new Job!) and get some dinner. Good plan except. . .dum dum dum. . . The out board won't start! DAMN! Of course in all the confusion of getting Sue Mismo and I north back in June we neglected to run the fuel out of the engine. Now it's jammed up apparently.

We think of even worse scenarios now. What if storms develope and we CAN'T get ashore. Hmmmm. Well, solutions will present themselves tomorrow so Sue makes a wonderful soup and we crash.

Tuesday morning a miracle happened. The outboard started! Yes. Didn't run well but better and better as it cleaned out its own jets I guess. Weather report from Chris is all clear with no wind wednesday thursday and maybe some on Friday. But today, Tuesday, is probably the best day to sail the 100 miles south to Bequia.

Here are the current projected tracks of some Atlantic disturbances from weatherunderground.

Did I mention that my daughter got her PhD in Physics?

Mismo seems to be much happier (doesn't bite us as much) now that she is back on board. She is back crawling inside the sail cover and climbing the foresail.

Like our friends say, all plans are chipped in Jell-O! Next report from Bequia. . . .maybe.

Adventures in International Travel

Yes, we are back in Martinique after a harrowing and bizarre day of air travel. We flew from Chicago to San Juan on Friday. That flight went well but Mismo screamed for the first 2 hours of a 4 hour flight. There was no consoling here so we just shoved her in her little bag under the seat in front of us. MEOW. Finally she gave up and slept the rest of the way. We went back to the ‘pet friendly’ Sheraton hotel in Old San Juan. Neat location and a pretty view.

On Saturday it was back to the airport for the 2 hour flight to Martinique. We get our turn in the check in line and the lady asks when we are returning. I say that we are not and that our confusing trips all began in Martinique and now we are returning. She says but you have to have a return ticket. “To where?” I respond. “We live on our boat and we are returning to it and then sailing away”. She says, NO. She cannot let me proceed without a return ticket to somewhere and that if she did she her self would be subject to huge fines and we would find ourselves in a big mess when we reached Martinique.

I said, “Let me get this straight. We can’t fly into Martinique without a ticket that shows that we are going to fly out again even if we have no intension of flying out again?”
“Right!”, she says. “Otherwise people would just be flying where ever they wanted and you’d have - “FREEDOM”? I interject.

So, I said there’s no way I’m buying a ticket that I’m not going to use and I’ll need to speak to your superior. She tried to keep talking to me but I just turned away and ignored her. She tried to call immigration in Martinique but it being August and all they weren’t answering the phone. She talked with her superior on the phone and then told me that they had come up with a solution.

We simply buy two full fare tickets from Martinique to San Juan and then, since they are full fare, just ask for our money back after you get there. Are you nuts? Why don’t we all just SAY I did that and skip all this and move along. No. Well time was not on our side (yeah we were the annoying people taking up a whole counter person for 20 minutes) so we agreed. We purchased two full fare ticktes as described (>$1000) and got on the plane.

We no sooner got on the plane (actually a large human oven) when the pilot got on and told us that we would be staying put for about an hour! Mismo is crying it is so hot. I am whimpering. Finally we take off and have a pleasant if cramped flight to Martinique.

Martinique Immigration: Sure enough the nice man there asked us when and how we were returning out of Martinique. We showed him our return tickets (we’ll never use them) and he was happy. While waiting for our bags it began to really bug me. I wanted to know what happens if I sail out of Martinique and never use the tickets that he asked to see. I went back and tried to ask him that but his english was so weak that I could not make myself understood. He managed to tell me to ask at customs. Since that was our next stop I was ok with that.

Now comes another sphincter squeezing moment. We had researched and researched all the conflicting rules about pets and countries and air travel. As a result Sue had Mismo get a series of shots, an electronic chip in her neck, AND her own passport before leaving Martinique. Now to see if that all works. We approach the customs desk and follow the people in front of us through a door into. . . . The airport! No Customs . . IT’S August! So we spent many hundreds of dollars on Mismo making her travel ready and no one ever asked for any of it. EVER! In fact we paid $100 to American Airlines each way for the right to take Mismo on board with us. But if you didn’t pay and just took her on as carry-on as we did there is no one to ask if you paid. Mismo doesn’t get a boarding pass. So much for the honor system! More like the chump system. Some chumps will cough up $100 for their pet so that’s all to the good for the airlines.

I searched for the American Eagle desk at the airport to cash in my tickets but they don’t have an office in Martinique. They just fly in and out about 100 times a day but no office. Someday I will find an American Eagle desk though and get our 1k back! How stupid.

Original plan was to launch Enee upon our arrival. Since a Saturday launch costs and extra 70 EU (~$105) we called the guy and told him to wait until Monday if that was ok and it was. Predictions are for no exciting weather for quite awhile so we’ll get away still Monday as planned or possibly Tuesday. Looks like we’ll knock off 100 miles on the first sail and head south (and little WEST!) to Bequia at the northern end of the Grenadines and thereby skip St Lucia (too close to us) and St. Vincent (too many outlaws - nobody goes there any more). So, we’ll leave around 1000 looking to arrive the following morning sometime. Should be a nice beam reach all the way. Yea! That will leave about 60 miles to Grenada. From there, another 80 or so to Trinidad if we go there. Still undecided about that.

Good to be back on the boat even if she ain’t floating yet. My batteries are all nearly dead and I am hoping the wind generator will put enough charge in before Monday so that I can start the engine. In the mean time no lamps, no fans, no Nuttin!. . . And LIKE it!

HAPPY AUGUST BIRTHDAYS TO: RJ and Will on the 2nd as well as the weddingpaloosa of Chris and Suzy and Brian T birthday on the 10th.

Back to the Islands!

OK, it's for real. The crew of Enee Marie will be heading back to the islands on Aug 8-9. As I'm sure you all remember, Enee is on the hard in Martinique. We'll have the yard put the boat in on the day we arrive and we'll put the sails on and make ready for sea the next day. Then, weather permitting, we'll be off to Grenada and maybe Trinidad where several of our friends are. We fly to San Juan, spend the night, and then on to Martinique. We'll stay at Mismo's favorite hotel. This will be Mismo's last visit to America by the way. Between airline fees, pet friendly hotels, and veteranarian visits her trip cost about the same as ours! Good thing we love her! (little bitch. . . )

It's has been a great stay in Chicago. We worked on maybe staying through December but apparently I am un-hireable so it's much easier to be poor in the islands than in Chicago. Still, Chicago in the summer is about the best place in the world to be. This weekend alone there was the Lincoln Ave. Street fair (yummy corn dog!), The Newberry Library book fair, Cubs baseball(still in first!), and the Venetian Night boat parade. Best of all is all the really fun and 'quality' time spent with daughter Leah and her husband Jason. Since I've arrived Leah has finished up her thesis, prepared her talk (to be given later this week!), found a very exciting job downtown Chicago, and found a new and very slick apartment near the lake and the ball park. Fun times. Too bad we'll miss the actual move (right!!!)

So, stay tuned for more sailing stories from hurricane season in the islands. Supposed to be great sailing this time of year . . . . when there's no hurricane.

Enee Strapped Down

As we bask in the glow of maybe the best Cub season EVER we received a picture from the nice people Carenantilles Marina in Martinique. See, the nice straps tied to the concrete blocks holding Enee down to the earth.

We have a Doctoral Thesis defense lecture to attend (daughter Leah. . . nice going!) and a wedding at the end of July. After that we are pretty much done up north and probably heading back to Enee. I know, hurricane season will be peaking. But we are only about 30 hours from Grenada if we need to run south which we will probably do. We are only 2-3 days from Puerto Rico as well and Salinas makes a nice hurricane hole as well. In any case you get a LOT of warning these days about coming storms so we should be able to plan accordingly. So to our loyal readers who have been looking for the continued adventures of Enee Marie thanks for waiting. We should have much to report in a few weeks. In the meantime sit back and enjoy the Chicago Cubs kicking the hell out of the rest of the national league.

For those who like to track hurricane development here's an excellent site: weatherunderground.

Summer in the City

.....back of my neck gettin' dirty and gritty.....

Lots of fun in the city happening over the past month. Here are a few pictures that tell the story:

The Bean

- a very interactive sculpture at Millennium Park near Lake Shore Drive projects a unique perspective of the city.









But wait -- this is even better! This is one of two 'facing' very tall fountains where kids of all ages play. Also at Millennium Park these fountains change how the water flows.


Look -- it's now a waterfall coming off the top and . . . . . .















It's lots of fun!












Chicago is a town full of summer festivals.

For example the Old Town Art Fair where Jason, Leah, and Andrea bought some very unique artifacts. If you look close you can see Andrea's new blue earrings.








And of course the ever popular Taste of Chicago -
where you can sample food from butter soaked corn on the cob to rainbow sherbet ice cream with every ethnic dish you can think of in-between.

Including of course - BEER!















Yes there are also many parades including the ever popular Gay Pride Parade.
Everybody is so happy this day. The dancing is quite spectacular. The floats are flamboyant. The crowd is ecstatic. And the beverages are ever so plentiful. Especially outside Monsignor Murphy's on Broadway.

Scott and Jason have discovered that pink lemonade with a 'twist' is the perfect beverage for the event.















Glad to report that Burnham Harbor is still one of the best harbors of the world. Or at least on Lake Michigan. We were able to visit with several of our Chicago sailing buddies including Chuck and Marybeth and Larry and Pat - pictured above.


The 4th of July weekend was spent at the lake house in Indiana. We had a great time with Scott's sister's family. Even though we had a few rainy days, water sports - fireworks - 'pit' and hearts card games - a thousand piece puzzle - hot tubbing - and never ending amazing meals made for a fantastic weekend. Thanks Teyemas!














So we begin July with a bang. Cubs are still in first place and won 2 out of 3 from the dreaded Cardinals. We have 3 family birthdays to celebrate this month: Erika T, Scott W. (otherwise known as captain snappy), and Jason (aka Dr. J). Happy Birthday to all.

Finally our token Mismo photos - just because she's the wonder cat!

Summer in the City

Mismo and Sailor Sue made it to Chicago safe and sound last Friday. Well.....safe anyway. The stay-over in San Juan at the Sheraton was quite nice. As Sue ran out to find a litter pan and kitty litter after Mismo has crossed her legs for 6 hours, room service delivered a lovely 'kitty bed' and food dishes. Mismo was the queen for a day. Getting shoved back into her carry-on cage and traveling another 6 hours to get to Chicago wasn't her idea of a good time and the next day Mismo spent several of the 6 hours trying to chew her way out of the soft cage while sitting on my lap.

Photo of Mismo on her throne. The little blue bag is for dog owners. It contains plastic gloves and blue plastic pooper scooper bag. Nice!

But how exciting to be picked up by Scott and Leah at the airport and head straight to our lake front apartment where kitty litter and pan and food were waiting - for Mismo. What a fun summer this will be - and is already! We're playing tennis on the courts right across the street. Having friends and family over for cookouts and Cub games.

Yesterday Leah and I went to the game. What fun! We didn't have tickets of course as we walked the few blocks to the ball park. But we had a plan. Go to the Day of Game Tickets window and look for Mike. He was there but standing room only and no sign of any good tickets becoming available at game time. A sold out crowd again on a Thursday afternoon. That's the good and bad news about the Cubs being so good. Tickets aren't available or affordable.

So we walked over to Bernie's to see if our friend Will the bartender and Bernie's icon has tickets. He did not but did have cold beers so we stayed and had lunch before heading out to scour out some tickets. The Day of Game ticket widows were all closed - not surprising - and so we started to make our way around the park looking for any sign of someone selling tickets. Mostly people were seeking tickets. The few tickets being 'vended' were by ticket brokers on the street selling bleacher seats for $150 and box seats for over $200. No thanks ....we'll keep looking. But it was getting very close to game time and we were about to give up and go back to Bernie's to watch the game when we heard someone say...he has 2 to sell. We quickly said - we need 2! Five minutes later we're sitting in the upper deck 9 rows back from home plate writing down the line-up. Wow, that was lucky. Talk about being in the right place at the right time. And we paid only $25 over the regular price.

Leah and I kept score for the whole game until it went into the 11th inning when we ran out of scorecard space. And what an ending! Edmonds (the former dreaded Cardinal) hit a home run to tie the score in the 9th. With the bases loaded in the bottom of the 11th Reed Johnson pinch hitting for Edmonds' gets hit by the pitch walking in the winning run. How crazy is that!

So Cubs win and sweep the home stand. They've won 11 in a row at home. So get in line for those playoff tickets now. We're on a roll.

This weekend should be lots of fun too. Movies, dinners, art festivals and more are planned. Scott is visiting his dad in Tampa over the Father's Day weekend and will return Monday when more adventures in finding Cub tickets will happen - I'm guessing.

HAPPY FATHER'S DAY TO ALL DADS and GO CUBS!

Chicago Bound

Yes...we will be spending the summer in Chicago! Is it a coincidence that we're Wrigley Field...I mean Chicago bound now that the Cubs look very serious after 100 years and that we'll be in Chicago for the summer? Maybe-

Scott left for Chi-town a couple weeks ago and was able to support Leah during her final deadlines for her Phd analysis. Last summer Jason was on the hot seat. This summer it's Leah's turn.

So for the past 10 days or so I've been making my way to a boatyard in Marin, Martinique with the help of several terrific people.


First of all Debbie and Larry (s/v Debonaire) helped me sail Enee from Fort de France to Marin. It was just about a 20 mile sail and not counting the 2 squalls (one at the beginning of the trip and one at the end) it was a fun sail. Well, actually it was a motor/main sail into the wind. But we're used to that now. Thanks guys. And the slip knot on the anchor chain held for 3 days.





Next I asked a nearby couple on s/v Leona to help me take down the sails. I saw them earlier in the afternoon come to the rescue of a cruiser who was diving on his boat to clean his prop. Apparently he suddendly couldn't breathe and Tom and Dominique literally saved his life. Well they saved mine too as far as getting these sails down. What a team they are. I hardly did anything. They also charter with their boat and I know it would be a great time sailing the Caribbean with them.



Finally the friendly people at the Carenantilles boatyard are terrific. Gerard hauled the anchor (remember no working windlass) and helped drive Enee into the haul out slip as well as made sure I had everything I needed for Enee to be secure on the hard. Jocelyne in the office was there from beginning to end including my anxious moments when I couldn't get any phones to work so she let me use the office cell phone and land line. Every time I walked into the office she said, 'bon jour Susan, how can I help you.' It was great.



Of course there is always the Welty & Rieger team back in sweet home Chicago who were always there for me via email/chat/skype. I really could not have gotten Enee ready for storage and myself with a ticket home without them.

So thank you all and can't wait to be back in town. I'm thinking future updates will have a lot to do with the Cubs.

And yes it is a new month and Happy Birthday to the June birthday boys: Eric and Evin. Maybe I can wish you both happy birthday in person. Oh wait - Eric is in Oregon and Evin is in the Dominican Republic. Well, you guys will just have to read this blog.


Okay - here's Mismo. She is very confused because all of her play places are gone including the rolled up fron sail that she likes to run and climb a 1/3 way up then slowly back down. She is not pleased. Just wait 'til she flies on the airplane tomorrow!

Where are we now?

Friday, May 23

We left Dominica around 6:am. Motor and main on the lee side of the island until we got to the corner. The white horses (white caps) were plainly in sight. Shall we reef? We considered beginning the day with a reef as we raised the main while on the mooring ball but reconsidered since the shape of the sail is so sloppy then. So full main we were as we rounded the point. The point is called Scott’s Head by the way. ‘nough said!















Scott's Head, Dominica - not to be confused with Scott's head and the rest of him, Enee Marie


So - the wind was more on the nose than we’d like and we compromised by motor sailing with full main and reefed (to the side stays) genny. Yes - the captain agreed to motor sailing. This was the only way to really get there and we had 50+ miles to go and we really wanted to get there. The crossing between the islands (Dominica and Martinique for those who are keeping track) was a sporty 25 miles. Once we passed the southern tip of Dominica we were able to pure sail to Martinique. Quite nicely. Although as we approached the southern island - maybe about 10 miles out - the wind was strong enough that the weather helm was really tugging. I’m still used to a tiller I suppose because the way I steer is to turn the wheel away from the wind and hold it there to stay on course. The holding it there doesn’t do it since we still go to windward and the wind always wins. I’m heading 20 degrees off my line and getting headed. The front sail is flogging and making a horrible sound - because I’m straight into the wind. Go figure!

We take turns at the helm. Two hours on two hours off. Except after this one particular hour I was swearing enough at the wind that Snappy took over. Maybe we should have let out the main for more comfort and control. We’re so used to sailing hard to the wind and easing the main sail often means loosing ground to your course. Anyway we held on to our course and finally made it to the tip of Martinique when suddenly the wind got turned off! Really!! It was like flipping a switch. No more tugging on the wheel. No more wind. In fact we had to put the motor on again to keep forward motion. What a difference.







We’re motor and main sailing down the coast of Martinique. Quite beautiful. At times all the islands seem the same because they all have volcanic mountains and beaches and palm tree. But at the same time each has it’s unique mountains and shorelines. We were arriving at yet another island country. But wait - here comes the wind again. This time it’s an on-shore breeze. Let the main tack over and pull out the genny - all the way. Nice easy beam reach now going 5+ knots. Sweet.

Mismo especially liked the calm, easy sail down the west coast of Martinique.

And then when we pass behind another volcanic mountain peak - no more wind. Motor main again. And so on and so on until we finally get to the bay at Fort du France. It’s a huge bay with a variety of anchorages. We chose Trois Islet (3 islands) because it was nice and secure from any weather of which we are suppose to get some high winds this coming week. However once maneuvering through the narrow and shallow channel (getting stuck twice!) we discover that the only boats anchored here are derelict - or at least nobody is on them and the housing on the shoreline doesn’t look so inviting either.

How about Anse Matin (14 33.7 N / 61 03.4 W) just around the corner.....where there is a big anchorage and a marina where you can check in for customs. We got the anchor down just before sunset (no green flash this time but we did see 2 consecutive flashes in Dominica!).

Whew. It was about 6:pm by the time we got our rum sundowners.
Mismo did the dance of joy. No photo of this. You'll have to use your imagination.


The anchorage at Anse Mitan. Enee is tucked in there somewhere.

Saturday, May 24
We checked in at the marina office. We do this by entering our passport numbers and boat information into a computer and print out 2 copies. That's it! Then on to explore the town. A bit touristy but cold beer non the less. Of course this is a French island and so the first restaurant we went to did have free wifi with a purchase (we had coffee) but would only serve us beer if we sat at a different table. We left. The second restaurant had free wifi but not during lunch hours so after using the internet for 1 hour, we left. There’s suppose to be internet at the laundromat that’s closed on Sundays (today). I’ll check that out on Monday.

Today I bought an orange-caraibe wifi card. It’s suppose to work around town. After going to two different places on shore neither have worked so far. Sitting at a table in the restaurant connected to the marina right now and no go with the wifi. And no one has asked me if I want anything to drink or eat as yet. It’s been 30 minutes. Today’s mother’s day here and they are a bit busy. No problem. I would just ask them why the internet doesn’t work anyway. Although I’d probably have another Lorraine. We like Lorraine. How can you not like a beer named after your middle name. Sue’s not Scott’s.

Monday:
Ok. Here’s the story. The laundry run by a very helpful and friendly lady did have washers and dryers and one pc but not wifi. That’s ok. There is wifi at the restaurant by our marina. And I’ve just discovered that I can get the internet on the boat - usually. No problemo. However while I was waiting for the laundry lady to open this morning I walked back to the store where I bought my orange cariabe card yesterday. To my surprise I was ‘told’ (me speaking english and gesturing; the guy behind the counter speaking french and really gesturing) that I bought a cell phone card not an internet card. Who knew. He did give me my money back though. Which was nice.

Maybe we can get the video to work that I took on our sporty sail over. Let’s give it a try.
Click on the black arrow to start the video.

Dominica - pronounced like the singing nun would

Another motor sail upwind to Dominica. Luckily I had my trusty cat there to help steer. Weird day. There was NO wind coming along the coast of Gaudeloupe and then once we hit the space between Gaudeloupe and Dominica. . . plenty of wind. ~18knots+ and too much on the nose for us. So, we did what we've learned to do: reefed main, reefed genny (and pulled to windward some with the lazy sheet) engine on. Kept us as close as we can get to the wind and keeps our speed up around 5 knots. After a 'sporty sail' and 10 hours later we arrived. It was around a 50 mile trip.

Yes, we're in Dominica. Nice little town here on the north west coast - Portsmouth. The town is 'quaint' which means it is boarding on 3rd world without falling into it. Friendly though and we found canned chicken which makes the stop worthwhile right there.
Photo on left is of a house's framework being held up with small tree trunks.
Hopefully the outcome will be a little sturdier than the house in the photo on the right!

We'll sail tomorrow for the other end of the island - Roseau, the capital. We have no plans to go ashore there but just want to stage to have a better chance of using the tidal current to our advantage for a change. The water tends to flow toward the moon so when the moon rises in the east the water will begin to flow east. That's good for us as our course to Martinique will be on a course of about 160 degrees true. You get another chance to take advantage about 12 hours later as there are two tides a day. So, we'll sail to Roseau and spend the night and then leave early the next morning and hopefully get a little help from the tidal current for a change.

Some of you may have lost track as to exactly where in the hell we are! I thought it might be a good idea to put up an overview of our trail since leaving BVI. As usual, click to see big version.

good news bad news

Hello Mr. and Mrs. America and all the ships at sea. Let's go to press.

Sail from Antigua to Deshaies, Gaudeloupe . . .our most recent 'best ever'. Beam reach in ~12 knots. Caught and passed a Island Packet with full sails up. See ya! Made ~6.5 knots the whole way in a gentle swell. The reason we came here! Bonus! We were SURROUNDED by dolphins at one point. They looked like teenagers (tatoos, cigarettes, you know.) but they swam with us for several minutes. Check out the video at the bottom of this post and the still below.








Sail from Deshaies, Gaudeloupe to Portsmouth, Dominica. . . not so good. No wind in the lee of Gaudeloupe and then wind on the nose once we got clear of Gaudeloupe. Lots of motor (really!) and a bit of a rough ride but as we say when the anchor's down, "Nothing broke and nobody died". Although, we're thinking of changing that toast to, "nothing broke and nobody killed anybody else. . . yet"!




So, we'll go ashore tomorrow and clear customs and begin to explore this new island. Customs? That reminds me...below you'll find a little piece about the customs house in English Harbor, Antigua. Enjoy.

Now then, some people wonder what one does on a 10-12 hour passage. Well one could write this entry (parts I did. . . read on) other than that you take pictures of your CAT! Herrrrrrrrres MISMO!





World Record Setting Rude People in Antigua

Customs and Immigration people from island to island are usually like government bureaucrats everywhere. They’re a little bored. They are sometimes a little snotty or short with Americans. Some more friendly than others. But, English Harbor, Antigua customs/immigration/port authority people set a new low water (or is that a high water mark) mark for rudeness.

I walked in and went to the Customs counter behind which sat a guy at a desk. Well, no, he was actually laying back horizontally in his desk chair and talking and laughing on his cell phone. OK. I’m standing there and we make eye contact and. . . nothing happens. He just keeps talking and laughing! A few more seconds go by and apparently I’m not going to vanish so he finally puts the phone down and looks at me and says, “What”? “Clearing out”, I say. He nods to the counter next to his and tells me to start there with the Port Authority. OK, I turn 90 degrees and walk 2 steps to that counter. There’s no one there. I wait. I say hello real loud. The guy is back on the phone and ignoring me. Hmmmm...I walk down to a third counter for immigration. A young woman is sitting at the counter but her head is turned around to watch the soap opera on the tv. A co-worker is sitting at a desk with her forehead flat down on the desk and she is OUT. I don't actually see drool on her blotter (how handy!) but I think it is there. I try to explain that I need to go to port authority but there’s no one there. She mumbles to me about the harbor master without taking her eyes off the tv and points (lovely nails though!) vaguely out the door. OK.

I walk back outside and looked for the harbor master but couldn’t find it. I asked a guy where it was and he directed me back to where I started. Oh great. . . .The soap has not ended so once again I find myself talking to this girl’s left ear hole (why don’t women grow ear hair I wonder. . . ). Now I get some actual directions a left, a right and a gray door. OK

Now I easily find the harbor master’s. “Clearing out”, I say. “When did you arrive”? Ah ha...See it doesn’t work. I was told to check into Jolly Harbor or you pay a harbor fee to be in Falmouth or English Harbors but now they’re going to get their pound of flesh at the other end. Well, I’m a pretty honest, but poor, guy so I fudge a little and say Monday (actually Friday). I have to pay $30 for 5 days! Oh well, just get me out of this bureaucratic hell. It’s 78 ec and I give her 100. She mumbles something about change and begins to walk out of the office. When she gets to the door I ask if I should wait or go with her. She SNAPS at me, “I just told you to come with me”! I wanted to say, “No, you said, mfmoliourlengusennout sdmf sm"! But I didn’t.

We walk back to the first office and I get my change. Now I’’m rolling. I get the standard check out form (which by the way is identical to your check in form except for marking the little box at the top OUT instead of IN. When these islands discover computers it will be so much easier but for now you have to repeat everything (name address, gross tonnage, passport numbers, etc). Now I take that back to soap opera lady. She works her rubber stamp on this form. YES! Rubber stamps mean you’re nearly done. I have our boat papers, their various forms, and our passports on the counter. She wiggles her fingers at my stuff like she wants something. Afraid to speak I guess for fear of missing something on the soap. I’m getting hot but just step back and say, “I don’t know what you want”! She is forced to actually move her body forward 10 degrees and help herself to our passports (bitch!). OK, back to the customs guy and his rubber stamp. Uh oh, I didn’t press hard enough to make all 17 copies come out clear and have to fill out the green one again by hand.

I’m done. OK, cultures are different and people work at different speeds and speak the kings english differently in different places but RUDENESS is universal. There is nothing cultural about being rude. Everyone knows it when they see it. AND, what manager puts a tv in the workplace anyway? We're talking a 23 inch baby mounted in the office. I’m sorry you have a boring ass job and no other marketable skills but that ain’t my problem. A little hello, good bye is still a nice way to treat other humans. Even if they are Americans.

bitch!

Leaving Antigua

Well, the job prospects here have pretty much petered out so we are going to move on. There is quite a lot of marine industry here there just aren't any boats left! So, we plan to head south once again on Saturday. We'll sail back to Deshaies, Gaudeloupe and just anchor for the night and then on to Dominica on Sunday. So win-win. Don't get to work and make the money I was hoping for for a new windlass and sail but I get to go sailing! This is the BEST sailing weather of the entire year down here. Easterlies or maybe a little south-easterlies at 10-15 knots. Nice.

This morning, just as the sun was coming up we heard a strange noise under the boat. Something was banging against the underside of the boat back under our aft cabin. What the. . . hey, where's Mismo? Holy Crap! I fly up on deck with a hand full of shorts but wearing none of them looking for the cat. She's nowhere and she's not in the water either. And then, there she comes out from under the boat and right to the rescue ladder that I made for her. She climbed up on her own but was NOT happy. Good news is that she found her way back aboard all on her own and I didn't have to go swimming.

We took the bus to the 'big' town of St. John today to look around and get a few things. One of the things I finally found was my perscription medicine. It's hard to find here because it is free for the residents so the pharmacies don't stock it. What kind of a crazy country gives away free drugs? Sheesh. Give me good old US of A where NO one can afford their medications and have to take a freaking Greyhound to Canada (eh?) to buy them. Anyway, a fun day. We have to get a few things from the grocery tomorrow, hit customs to check out, and of course buy some boat things at the little chandlery here.

So stay tuned for more sailing stories from the high seas!